Bunaken, Indonesia – Field Notes from the Reef
Since I had never been to Bali, I was somewhat curious to visit, but as I was arriving in Asia through Singapore, I realized there was a direct flight to Manado, and from Manado there was also a direct connection to Sorong — a fairly short one, around an hour.
Very close to Manado lies the island of Bunaken, part of a small archipelago that, according to my research, offered better snorkeling than the Bali area. The prices were also very attractive, which made me choose it as an intermediate stop on the way to Raja Ampat.
I have to say right away that it was an excellent choice. The snorkeling quality in Bunaken is genuinely very good, getting there from Manado was quick, and everything was arranged by the accommodation in Bunaken — the 3WLL Bunaken Dive Resort — which did not charge excessive prices.
The accommodation was good and the food acceptable for that part of the world, and the experience was overall very positive.
The snorkeling is excellent. I focused my attention intensively on the reef in front of the hotel, partly because there was a steep wall at the end of the coral, which are always areas of concentration for larger species. My more intensive exploration led me to observe sharks, which according to the resort are not commonly seen — but the truth is I spent a lot of time in that area and gradually expanded the zone I was exploring.
There is no jetty leading out to the reef, so at times it was necessary to swim a longer distance, especially at high tide, and on one or two dives I felt a slight current — so I would consider the snorkeling there to be intermediate level. A jetty would make everything easier and more accessible.
I'll now share what I wrote in my travel diary in a compact, unedited form, to stay as true as possible to the experience as I felt it in the moment — which included some more challenging moments, such as coming down with a cold.
7/2/2025 – Singapore to Bunaken
Upon arriving in Manado, entry was somewhat complex — visa, immigration, and customs declaration — but after that my driver "Roy" was waiting for me.
I had difficulty withdrawing money as there was a limit (1,000,000), and I had to stop at a supermarket to withdraw a bit more.
We drove forty-five minutes to a point where the distance to the island by boat was as short as possible — the boat was already waiting there. For the first time I saw the lush green scenery of Southeast Asia and the simple way these people live.
There are many insects and I saw three types of spiders. A gecko turned my toilet into a jacuzzi.
I did my first snorkel session, which didn't look promising at first, but after swimming a good while things improved and suddenly we reached a coral wall that drops quite steeply. It may be the place with the most fish I have ever been to, and it is absolutely incredible. Perhaps the best first snorkel I've done on a trip. It would have been worth it for this alone.
Interestingly, a French woman, slightly older, was somewhat afraid to swim out to the wall, and I encouraged her to do so.
At dinner there was chicken, but I ate the soup, rice, and potato, which was a little different. I also had fruit, which was very good. At the restaurant there were two Dutch couples — one older and one younger.
I went down to the water's edge. It was almost 30 degrees Celsius, no wind, creating an almost surreal atmosphere, complemented by the mangroves shaped like spines.
I got back to the room, closed the mosquito net around the bed, and fell asleep almost instantly due to the heat.
8/2/2025 – Bunaken
I'm still jet-lagged. I woke up at one in the morning and only managed to fall back asleep around five, but had to get up at half past eight for breakfast. I went back to snorkel in the same spot, right in front of the resort — there was a little more light this time. A dog, like a German shepherd, was playing in the water and came over to me.
I had to pass the first barrier of Triggerfish, which I treat with great respect given my history with them (2).
Then I advanced towards the coral. The light came, putting me into a flow state. I reached the wall at the end of the coral, where there were many fish. I started moving to the right side of the wall and saw a turtle. I stopped and gently moved towards it, but it also gently began moving away toward open water, and I gave it space.
I went to the left side, admiring the beauty of the corals and fish. I did a freedive, but equalization was difficult and so was the mask pressure, which I relieved. I started producing a lot of mucus.
Suddenly I looked back and noticed the same turtle I had seen before was following me — and upon realizing it had been spotted, it hid in a cavity in the wall. I kept going and a little further ahead I looked back again, and there it was, hiding once more.
Snorkeling has two dimensions — seeing, and being seen…
I went for lunch. Even though there was fish, I ate vegetarian. Suddenly it started raining intensely, but in a pleasant heat, somehow changing my perception of rain — because when it rains in Portugal, it's cold. It passed quickly, like a shower.
The resort dogs came to find me at my room door, and a female dog lay down beside me on the porch, touching my leg.
It rained during the afternoon, and around four I went snorkeling. It was cloudy and nearly raining, the sea was rougher and visibility was lower. I saw a large turtle — it was close to the shore and as soon as it saw me it moved away. I went to the wall at the end of the coral, and on the way back I felt a stronger current.
When I returned, the dog was lying on my porch.
After dinner I walked to the village. I saw a Catholic cemetery in the middle of the main road. The village was very humble, which gave me pause to reflect and think.
09/02/2025 – Bunaken
10/02/2025 – Bunaken
11/02/2025 – Leaving Bunaken
Leaving the island and heading to Manado while feeling unwell.
The flight cancellation (3) and its profound discomfort on every level. Falling and getting back up.
Notes:
Here is the video about the stay and snorkeling in Bunaken:
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